Guia de viagem Montreal

[Fernando Paiotti]

Segue o guia de viagem que criei para Montreal! Se você gostar, deixa um comentário!

 

1.  MONTREAL

Montreal está situada numa ilha do rio São Lourenço, ao pé do Mont Royal (que em francês arcaico se chamava “Mont Réal”, daí o nome). O Boulevard St. Laurent divide a cidade entre o Oeste anglófono (você percebe pelo nome das ruas: University, Peel, Mansfield) e o Leste québecoise.

Fundada por franceses em 1642, Montreal logo se tornou o principal centro do comércio de peles da América do Norte. O domínio da França, contudo, durou apenas até 1760, quando as colônias francesas do Canadá foram entregues à Inglaterra como consequência da vitória britânica na Guerra dos Sete Anos. Mesmo constituindo a minoria da população, os ingleses formavam a elite de Montreal, controlando a banca e o comércio. Ainda durante o período colonial britânico os anglos fundaram a Universidade McGill, a mais importante e prestigiosa da cidade – e onde até hoje as aulas são dadas em inglês.

A dominação cultural da elite anglófona só foi seriamente contestada pela maioria québecoise a partir da década de 1970. Desde então uma legislação linguística rigorosa regula a comunicação no serviço público (onde o bilinguismo é obrigatório), nas escolas (as aulas podem até ser em inglês, mas os trabalhos podem ser apresentados em francês, mesmo na McGill) e no comércio. Todos os letreiros de Montreal precisam estar em francês – e é por isso que você vai ler coisas como “Café Starbucks Coffee” ou “Poulet Frit du Kentucky”.

O purismo é tamanho que faz o francês aparecer em ocasiões em que já não é mais usado na França. A placa “PARE”, que em território francês é “STOP”, em Montreal é “ARRÊT”. Estacionamento, que em qualquer cafundó da França é “Parking”, no Québec é “Stationemment”. Vale a pena prestar atenção nesses detalhes. Em plena era da globalização, é uma experiência única estar num lugar onde a língua universal é combatida com tanto esforço.

 

THE PERFECT MONTREAL 3 DAY ITINERARY

Day 1: Old Montreal & old port + Saint Henri

Day 2: Mont-Royal + Mile End

Day 3: Olympic stadium + downtown + Quartier des spectacles

1.1.        Locomoção e gastos em Montreal

1.1.1.    Como ir do aeroporto Trudeau até o centro da cidade de ônibus?

O aeroporto internacional de Montreal está a cerca de 20km do centro da cidade e apesar de ser relativamente perto, uma viagem de carro pode levar cerca de 1h, dependendo do trânsito e condições climáticas. Você, claro, pode optar por táxi ou Uber, cuja corrida vai sair entre CA$ 50 ou CA$ 70 mais a gorjeta, mas se a sua opção for o transporte público, a má notícia é que não há trem ou metrô que ligue o aeroporto ao centro de Montreal, mas há uma linha de ônibus especial que o faz, é o Shuttle 747 Express (CA$ 11). Ele passa pelos principais hotéis da cidade, pela estação central de ônibus e pelo metrô (Berri-UQAM métro station). Você pode comprar a passagem em máquinas, ainda no terminal do aeroporto ou direto com o motorista (mas o dinheiro tem que estar certo, pois ele não dá troco) e essa mesma passagem ainda lhe permitirá usar o transporte público de Montreal por 24h ilimitadamente.

De Trem: Muitas pessoas acabam chegando em Montreal de trem, vindo de alguma outra cidade na costa leste canadense, como por exemplo Toronto, Quebec ou Ottawa. A estação central de trem em Montreal (Gare Centrale) fica localizada bem no centro financeiro da cidade, próximo de diversos hotéis e fácil conexão com o sistema de metrô.

1.1.2.    Como se locomover em Montreal?

A dica é comprar um dos bilhetes válidos por 24h ou 3 dias, pois poderá utilizá-lo quantas vezes quiser dentro do período de validade, sendo aceito tanto no ônibus, quanto no metrô. Compre o passe diretamente com o atendente no guichê do metrô. É possível comprar também nas maquininhas espalhadas pelas estações. Se não adquirir o bilhete antes de embarcar no ônibus, você poderá pagar pela viagem em dinheiro vivo, mas, atenção: o motorista só aceita moedas e não dá troco.

The underground subway in Montréal is called the metro and there are only 4 lines; with one of those only having 3 stops.

·       Compre passagem direto nos guichês de estações de metrô e dentro dos ônibus com o motorista.

·       O preço do tíquete é 3.50 CAD (metrô e ônibus). Em ônibus, vale para conectar com outro veículo na mesma direção.

·       Se não tiver chip internacional no celular, baixe o mapa de Montreal no Google Maps pra ver onde tem metrô.

·       Se vai de ônibus, trace a rota pelo Google Maps. Funciona bem e os ônibus passam na hora marcada.

 

·         Public transportation – Montreal’s bus service covers the entire city center and the outskirts of town, including the airport. It’s 3.50 CAD for one ride or 6.50 CAD for a return trip. An unlimited day pass is 11 CAD. You can use your tickets on the subway as well, which is the best way to get around the city. If you’d like to be able to top up your transit card, purchase an OPUS card for 6 CAD.

·         Taxi – Taxis are not cheap here. Their base rate is 4.05 CAD and it’s an additional 1.75 CAD per km afterward. Skip the taxis if you can as prices add up fast!

·         Ridesharing – Uber is available in Montreal and is a bit cheaper than taxis, however, it’s still much more expensive than public transportation and likely not much faster if you’re downtown.

·         Bicycle – Montreal is very bike-city friendly and there are plenty of bicycle rental businesses around town. The public bike rental system is Bixi Bike. It costs 50 cents to unlock a bike, and then 10 cents/min for a regular bike or 12 cents/min for an e-bike. With over 8,000 bikes available at 700 stations across the city, you can easily hop around the city by bike. If you purchase an OPUS transit pass, you can link it to Bixi Bike to easily tap and rent a bike, as well as receive 10% off fares.

·         Car rentals – Car rentals start at 60 CAD per day for a multi-day rental. However, I wouldn’t suggest renting one here as parking is expensive and you’ll get around much faster by subway and bus.

1.1.3.    Gastos em Montreal

1.1.3.1.            Hospedagem

Hostel prices – A bed in a 4-8-bed dorm costs 35-45 CAD per night while a dorm with 10 beds or more costs 30-35 CAD. A standard private room starts at 75 CAD per night for two people but averages closer to 150 CAD. Free Wi-Fi is standard and most hostels have self-catering facilities. A couple of hostels also include free breakfast.

Budget hotel prices – Budget hotels start at 110-125 CAD in the center of town. Expect basic amenities like free Wi-Fi, TV, AC, and a coffee/tea maker. Airbnb is available everywhere in Montreal, with private rooms starting around 45 CAD per night. An entire home/apartment starts at around 90 CAD per night. Expect prices to double if you don’t book early.

1.1.3.2.            Alimentação

The food in Montreal is a collage of dishes from other cultures, owing to the country’s diverse history of immigration. In Montreal, you’ll want to make sure you try poutine (it has the best poutine in the country), smoked meat and Montreal bagels, as well as more general Canadian staples like beaver tails (fried dough with maple syrup), Canadian bacon, and the oddly tasty ketchup chips.

For budget travelers, Montreal has an endless selection of fast-food joints and takeaway spots. You can find poutine for under 10 CAD, or burgers and small pizzas for around 10-12 CAD each. A smoked meat sandwich can cost around 20 CAD with fries and coleslaw, while a hearty bagel sandwich costs about 10-12 CAD. Fast food is around 13 CAD for a combo meal.

A meal at a casual restaurant is around 20 CAD. A beer to go with it is about 6-8 CAD. If you want to splash out, a meal at a high-end restaurant costs about 45 CAD for an entree without a drink.

If you cook for yourself, expect to spend around 50-60 CAD per week on groceries. This gets you basic staples like rice, pasta, produce, and some meat.

Some of my favorite restaurants in Montreal include Fairmount Bagels, Damas, Wilensky’s, Le Serpent (for something upscale), La Chilenita, Olive et Gourmando, Main Deli, Sushi Momo, and Drogheria.

1.1.3.3.            Money-Saving Tips

Montreal isn’t one of the cheapest destinations on the world but there are a lot of ways to cut your spending when you visit, especially if you stick to the free activities. Here are some ways to save money when you visit Montreal:

·       Take a free walking tour – Walking tours are a great way to get familiar with a city and its culture. Free Montreal Tours offers one that covers all the main highlights. Just remember to tip your guide at the end!

·       Get the museum pass – A Montréal Museum Pass provides access to over 40 different museums around Montreal. A 3-day pass is 75 CAD, while a 3-day pass with unlimited transportation is 80 CAD.

·       Apportez-votre vin – Many restaurants in Montreal have a sign displayed out front that says “Apportez-votre vin” (bring your own wine). You can pick up a cheap bottle of wine at the supermarket and bring it to dinner with you!

·       Look for free events – Montreal has tons of free events year-round, but especially during the summer. Many of the major music festivals (like the Montreal International Jazz Festival, the largest jazz festival in the world) has free concerts or shows in the streets. There are also free art shows, theatrical performances, and even stand-up comedy (the annual Just For Laughs comedy festival is the largest comedy festival in the world). Mtl.org lists all events!

·       Check out Montreal Sweet Deals – Mtl.org also has a selection of “Sweet Deals,” where if you book a room with one of the partner hotels directly, you’ll get special perks like late departure, breakfast included, or a discounted room rate (sometimes up to 30% off).

·       Eat at Montreal’s Food Markets – Head to Jean-Talon market in Little Italy, the largest open-air market in North America for a unique experience and stock up on fresh food items. There are also many eateries and places to get a snack or a full meal whether you’re in the mood for tacos, mozzarella sticks, crepes, ice cream, or oysters.

·       Pick up a Passeport MTL – Much like the museum pass above, the official city pass, Passeport MTL, lets you choose admission to five attractions from a list of over 28 attractions when you buy a card. The card also includes discounted offers to other attractions too. It’s 95 CAD.

·       Bring a water bottle – The tap water here is safe to drink so bring a reusable water bottle to save money. LifeStraw makes a reusable bottle with a built-in filter to ensure your water is always safe.

1.1.3.4.            Backpacking Montreal Suggested Budgets

If you’re backpacking Montreal, expect to spend at least 60 CAD per day. This assumes you’re staying in a hostel, cooking all your meals, limiting your drinking, walking everywhere or taking public transportation, and doing mostly free activities like hanging out on Mont-Royal and doing free walking tours. If you plan on drinking, add 10-20 CAD to your daily budget.

On a mid-range budget of 150 CAD per day, you can stay in a private Airbnb, eat out for a few meals, take the occasional taxi, enjoy a couple of drinks, and visit some museums or do a food tour.

On a “luxury” budget of 265 CAD or more per day, you can stay in a hotel, eat out for all your meals, drink more, take more taxis or rent a car, and do whatever tours or activities you want. This is just the ground floor for luxury though. The sky is the limit!

You can use the chart to get some idea of how much you need to budget daily, depending on your travel style. Keep in mind these are daily averages — some days you’ll spend more, some days you’ll spend less (you might spend less every day. Prices are in CAD.

1.2.        Pontos turísticos de Montreal

1.2.1.    Complexo Olímpico e Biodôme

Space for Life (Espace pour la vie). This is where the magic of the Olympics of the 76’ happened. The space for life consists of regrouping several nature museums and it is the largest natural sciences complex in Canada. It has the Biodome, the Rio Tinto Alcan Planetarium, the Olympic Park and the Botanical Garden and Insectarium, all of these are adjacent to Maisonneuve Park. This complex is located in the Hochelaga-Maisonneuve neighborhood which is on the verge of gentrification and has some cool bars and restaurants on Ontario Street.

1.2.1.1.            Parque Olímpico de Montreal

Take a trip to the past by visiting the gigantic Olympic Stadium which opened in 1976 and it hasn’t changed since. The retro looks of "The Big O" (referencing both its name and the doughnut-shaped roof) will transport you back to when the lauded gymnast Nadia Comaneci earned the first of 7 perfect scores of 10. While today the frenzy of the Olympics is long gone, you can take a guided tour and go up to the observation tower for an incredible view of Montreal.

·         Endereço: 4141 Pierre-de Coubertin Ave, Montreal. Site

·         Horários: aberta diariamente, das 7h às 21h.

·         Ingressos: 5 CAD, adulto. (Tour guiado pelo estádio olímpico: 14,50 CAD)

1.2.1.2.            Observatório e Torre Olímpica

A Torre do Estádio Olímpico é a maior torre inclinada do mundo, com 165m e um ângulo de 45°. A vista do alto impressiona, tanto pela beleza da cidade, quanto pela estrutura construída ao redor para receber os jogos. Recém-renovado, o complexo abriga atividades de sete modalidades diferentes e eventos culturais.

·         Horários: de terça à domingo, das 9h às 18h. Durante o inverno, a torre fecha às 17h.

·         Ingressos: 23.25 CAD, adulto

1.2.1.3.            Jardim botânico e insetário

Montreal is home to the second-largest botanical garden in the world. Spanning 185 acres and opened in 1931, it showcases 10 indoor greenhouses including a Chinese garden, a Japanese garden, a lily garden, and a rose garden. There’s also a tranquil First Nations Garden designed to represent the natural environment of Quebec’s First Nations, including plants from the Nordic Zone. There are some iconic endemic plants but the garden focuses on the medicinal and food plants of the First Nations. Along the path, you will admire several totem poles and exhibits demonstrating traditional artwork. São 30 jardins temáticos com mais de 22 mil plantas diferentes. It was designated a National Historic Site of Canada in 2008.

·         Horários: aberto diariamente, a partir das 9h. O horário de fechamento pode variar entre 17h30 e 21h de acordo com o período do ano.

·         Ingressos:

·         Jardim botânico e o insetário: 20.50 CAD

·         Planetário: 20.50 CAD

·         Ticket combinado para visitar duas atrações: 35.50 CAD

·         Ticket combinado para visitar uma atração mais o observatório: 40.25 CAD

1.2.1.4.            Biodôme

This used to be the velodrome for track cycling races, today you can walk through replicas of four ecosystems found in the Americas. You will go from seeing the boreal forest with beavers to the penguins of Antarctica. While going from the boreal vegetation to the lush tropical forest in a heartbeat. The plant ecosystems might be impressive but the animals here live in captivity, sadly.

1.2.2.    Place de Arts

A Place des Arts é um pólo cultural no centro de Montreal, que ocupa um trecho somente para pedestres na rua Saint-Catherine. O local é repleto de teatros e museus como a casa da orquestra sinfônica, a Ópera de Montreal, o Museu de Arte Contemporânea (MAC), dentre outros. Caminhando pela Place des Arts, você vai se deparar com várias obras de arte e esculturas espalhadas.

1.2.2.1.            Chinatown (Quartier Chinois)

Localizada no meio do caminho entre o centro histórico (Vieux-Montreal) e a Place des Arts, você vai se deparar com a Chinatown de Montreal. Apesar de não ser tão grande quanto a de Toronto, é um bom lugar para comer ou fazer compras. It is recorded that the first Chinese clans which settled in the area were the Chan, Hom, Lee, Wong clans, but later Chinese refugees from Vietnam also settled in the area.

The size of Chinatown decreased from around 1970 due to redevelopment and rezoning of the district. Because of the reduced size of Chinatown, you may find that there are not as many shops as one would expect to find, however you will easily come across something which catches your interest; it is always worth the look. In spite of the decreased size of the district, it is still bustling with people, night life, food stalls, shops and restaurants. One reason why this Chinatown is still so busy is because shops and restaurants have special license to remain open until late as Montreal's city officials slated the area as a tourist attraction. Because of this special permission Chinatown is alive during the day as well as during the night.

Located at the corner of de la Gauchetière and Coté streets, The Wings building may be the oldest building in Chinatown. Built in 1826 by James O'Donnel, the architect of Notre Dame Basilica in Old Montreal, the Wings Building has been a military school, a paper box factory, and warehouse. Wing Hing Lung (“Wings” for short) is known for their fresh noodles and were the first manufacturer to make bilingual fortune cookies!

Situated in the heart of Chinatown at the corner of Clark and de la Gauchetière, is Place Sun Yat Sen, a public square named after the ideological father of modern China. Constructed by eight commissioned craftsmen from Shanghai, this park was created using traditional methods and materials. The north wall features a large grey slate carving and to the east a traditional decorative Chinese structure featuring exposed wood beams, joists and lintels that houses a souvenir shop.

“Benevolent Associations” or Tongs (which translates to “hall” or “gathering place”) were founded where members of the same families would congregate to provide support and counseling to newly landed Chinese immigrants. Montréal’s Lee Family Association (90 de la Gauchetière West) as well as Wong Wun Sun Association (75 de la Gauchetière West) are among the oldest in the country. They invite visitors to admire artifacts and photos on display from over the years – some are over 100 years old! Sugestões:

·         Pho Bac 97: Great pho and bun noodle bowls. Expect to pay about $10 CAD for an entree. Pho Bang New York is also pretty good; expect similar prices. Montreal native and Vietnamese food expert Jodi of Legal Nomads recommends Ca Phe Con Leche and Pho Tay Ho.

·         Qing Hua: If you want to feel like you never need to eat again and spend less than $8 CAD doing so, make sure you check out Qing Hua. Their pork dumplings with mushrooms are LIFE.

·         Dim Sum: literally translated to “touch the heart” these small delicate plates of food that often consist of dumplings, steamed sweet or savory buns and stir fry are a weekend brunch favourite. Head to Restaurant Kim Fung or Red Ruby.

·         Slurp it up: If you only have time to eat one thing in Chinatown, make it a piping hot bowl of noodles. While the downtown core has done a bang-up job in the ramen department, Chinatown still reigns supreme when it comes to Vietnamese pho, Korean jigae and hand-pulled Chinese noodles. Head to Pho Bang New York for some of the best rice noodles in the city, Chez Bong for noodle-heavy soups, or make your way to Nouilles Lao Tz, where visitors can watch the chefs carefully pull noodles in the street window before coming in for a bowl. Whatever you pick, these options are among the reigning champions for having the best cheap eats in the city.

·         Hong Kong-style bakery: outpost boasts some of the best buns and egg custards in the city, with Bao Bao Dim Sum not far behind. Another excellent option for a sugar fix is Chow Pastry, a small bakery serving sesame balls, bean paste and more. Note that only Chow Pastry is equipped with seating to enjoy your picks, but you can bring your snacks around the corner to enjoy al fresco at Sun Yat Sen Park when it’s warm out.

·         (Re)freshen up: it wouldn’t be a trip to Chinatown without a bubble tea in hand. There’s a high concentration of options available, including the Tawainese global franchise Chatime and Kabiga Thé Chinatown (also known as Dessert De Taiwan) which acts as another excellent option directly across from Chatime and offers exceptional boba out of its independently run walk-up window. If you prefer to sit down and sip your tea slowly, head upstairs to L2 Lounge where you’ll find a crowd hanging out playing foosball and sucking back pearl teas and fresh juice.

·         Floss your teeth: if you’ve never tasted dragon’s beard candy, now’s your chance. The Chinese cotton candy originated in Hong Kong and is notably hard to find outside of Asia. Montreal’s Chinatown was one of the first in North America to offer the ancient confection back in the nineties, and the original stand still exists today. The stand’s owner is Johnny Chin, whose passion for the candy stems back to his childhood in Hong Kong where he learned the art from his older brother. The best way to describe it is sticky floss wrapped in incredibly fine threads around crushed peanuts, but really, you should just try it yourself.

1.2.2.2.            Rue Saint-Catherine

The construction of the Rue was started in 1801 and it is located between Notre-Dame Street and Claremont Avenue and crosses the central district. From west to east, Sainte-Catherine Street stretches 11,5km across the city. It is Montréal’s main commercial artery and one of North America’s longest and liveliest, for good reason. From Saint-Laurent Boulevard, going west, the street is home to the major department stores, an array of boutiques, restaurants and several shopping centres. Out the other way is a mix of boutiques, nightlife hotspots, cafés, theatre venues and more. From the great festivals to sidewalk sales to red carpet events, there’s always something happening along Sainte-Catherine! É nela também onde fica uma das igrejas mais antigas de Montreal, a Saint James United Church.

No less than nine metro stations serve this mighty street that winds its way through residential neighbourhoods, the Quartier des spectacles and the downtown core. And with the ever-growing number of office towers close by, Sainte-Catherine Street offers easy access to the Underground Pedestrian Network.

Sainte-Catherine Street has been the pride of Montréal for over a century. Towards the end of the 19th century, English merchants began to set up shop along Sainte-Catherine Street West. Philips Square saw the arrival of notable department stores the likes of Henry Morgan and Co. (now the Hudson’s Bay building), Birks Jewellers in 1894, then Eaton’s in 1927 and Simpson not long behind. Today, a diverse mix of patrimonial architecture combines with modern-day utility, making the street a prime shopping and entertainment destination.

On the other hand, the traditionally francophone Sainte-Catherine Street East developed with industry in the 1870s. It became a commercial artery towards the end of the 19th century, with ground-floor shops in residential buildings making way for large stores. To this, add a host of entertainment venues, cinemas and theatres that keep Sainte-Catherine Street East hopping to this day.

1.2.2.3.            Basílique-Cathédrale Marie-Reine-du-Monde

É a sede da arquidiocese católica de Montreal e uma das maiores da cidade, inaugurada em 1894. Os destaques no interior da basílica vão para o belíssimo e gigantesco altar de madeira e sua enorme cúpula. O atrativo é o fato de que ela é uma réplica da Basílica de São Pedro do Vaticano. Num primeiro momento, ela não parece muito com a original, pois não tem aquela colunata tradicional ao redor. Mas basta acessar uma foto da versão original para ir percebendo que a fachada é mesmo igualzinha, só que menor. E o interior também é muito parecido. Há até as réplicas do baldaquino e da famosa cúpula de Michelangelo. Bishop Ignace Bourget oversaw its construction after the first Catholic cathedral here burned to the ground in 1852. Most impressive is the 76m-high dome, about a third of the size of the Italian original. The statues standing on the roofline represent patron saints of the Québec region, providing a local touch. A entrada é gratuita.

1.2.2.4.            Palais des Congrès de Montréal

É o centro de convenções de Montreal, um prédio super moderno e colorido que chama a atenção de quem passa pelo local.

 

1.2.3.    Vieux Montréal

Old Montreal is easily the most attractive part of the city. Its cobblestone streets and historic greystone buildings date back to the 1700s. When people think of Montreal, this is the part of the city they picture. Some of the city’s finest museums and art galleries are here too, including the Montreal Museum of Archaeology and History (admission is 25 CAD). You can also take a Ghost Tour with Get Your Guide for 21.50 CAD.

The area was founded by French settlers and is one of the oldest urban areas in North America. The main landmarks are Montreal City Hall, Bonsecours Market, Notre-Dame-de-Bon-Secours Chapel and finally, the Notre-Dame Basilica, a must-visit, even if you are not into religious sites. The Place Jacques Cartier is always full of life with street performers and with plenty of tourist action. There are 2 very well-preserved colonial mansions, such as the Château Ramezay and the Sir George-Étienne Cartier, a National Historic Site of Canada to immerse yourself into the 1700s. The Saint-Sulpice Seminary is the oldest extant building in Montreal.

 

If you go 2 short blocks North, you can enjoy the architecture of heyday as Canada's financial centre. The main buildings are the former Bank of Montreal Head Office, 1888 New York Life Building, the oldest skyscraper in Canada. The rest of Saint Jacques Street is lined with old bank buildings. Their architecture is worth taking the chance to look up and admire the details. To take it all in, go to the Crew Cafe. This unique coffee shop and creative co-working space is located on the ground floor of what used to be the grand headquarters of the Royal Bank of Canada, built back in 1928. The place is grandiose and beautiful!

If you are into archeology, you should go to Montreal's first settlement in the Pointe-à-Callière museum. Take advantage of interactive displays to learn about key moments in the city’s history. Also, you should not miss the introductory movie of Montreal with a fantastic light display. Don’t forget to check out the website if there are interesting temporary exhibits during your visit.

To better understand the history of the city you should do the Cité Mémoire circuit. This is one of the largest outdoor video-projection installations in the world! The circuit has 24 tableaux that tell the stories of famous as well as little-known Montrealers who have shaped the city and the world. The tableaux have images, dialogue and music projected on walls, in alleys, on the ground and on trees in historic Old Montréal and downtown. The outdoor projections run from Tuesday to Sunday, from dusk until 23h. There is a free app that you can download to go with your circuit. Don’t worry about your data plan, the whole area has free WIFI.

If you are looking for souvenirs or for unique artisan pieces, then you should wander around Saint-Paul street - which is one of Quebec’s oldest streets. It was named after the city’s first governor, Paul de Chomedey de Maisonneuve. You should consider buying your souvenirs at Artisans or L’Empreinte as they showcase the talent of local artists. The street is also full of restaurants, bars, and cafes and admires the multitude of art galleries.

 

·      Start: Place d’ Armes, opposite the Notre-Dame Basilica

·      Finish: Vieux-Port

·      Time: 2 h

·      Best Times: Almost any day the weather is decent. Vieux-Montréal is lively and safe, day or night. Note that most museums are closed on Monday. On warm weekends and holidays, Montréalers and visitors turn out in full force, enjoying the plazas, the 18th- and 19th-century architecture, and the ambience of the most picturesque part of their city.

·      Worst Times: Evenings, days that are too cold, and times when museums and historic buildings are closed. Sunny days in winter are known to be particularly cold (as opposed to those when it is snowing and temperatures are notably warmer), but you can take advantage of the bright light. Do as the locals do and wear a warm coat, hat, mitts, and good boots.

 

Where to eat in Old Montreal?

This is the most tourist part of the town and you have a lot of tourist traps to eat. Here are my recommendations. The Coldroom is a speakeasy bar full of great cocktails crafted for you. The Philemon is a wine bar with delicious homemade pasta on the menu. If you go there in the morning or lunch you should go to Cartet for a classic Quebec brunch or Olive & Gourmando for delicious sandwiches and their cookies are brownies deserve all the praise.

1.2.3.1.            Rue Saint Paul

A Rue Saint Paul é a principal rua do centro histórico, considerada a rua mais bonita de Montreal. Caminhar por ela é uma delícia, repleta de turistas, lojinhas, especialmente para souvenires, restaurantes, cafés e bares. É uma das poucas ruas em Montreal onde os edifícios históricos não deram lugar aos arranha-céus que vemos por toda parte na região. Vale a pena caminhar por lá de dia, assim como na parte da noite, para ver como a iluminação altera a paisagem do lugar e também como o agito noturno muda a vida da região.

1.2.3.2.            Place d’Armes

This is one of three main squares in Old Montreal dating back to the end of the 17th century. Originally used for military events and markets, today it’s a beautiful piece of preserved history. Nearby is the Vieux Séminaire de St-Sulpice, Montreal’s oldest seminary and building (built between 1684-1687) for the Catholic Order of Sulpicians. You’ll also find the majestic Notre-Dame Basilica cathedral here, lauded for being one of the most beautiful churches in North America. Lastly, there is the Bank of Montreal’s founding building, and also the New York Life Insurance skyscraper, constructed in 1888. The plaza is a wonderful place to people-watch and take in the local pace of life.

The architecture of the buildings that surround this plaza is representative of Montréal’s growth: the Sulpician residence of the 17th century; the Banque de Montréal and Basilique Notre-Dame of the 19th century; and the Art Deco Edifice Aldred of the 20th century.

The centerpiece of the square is a monument to city founder Paul de Chomedey, Sieur de Maisonneuve (1612–1676). The five statues mark the spot where settlers defeated Iroquois warriors in bloody hand-to-hand fighting, with de Maisonneuve himself locked in combat with the Iroquois chief. De Maisonneuve won and lived here another 23 years. The inscription on the monument reads (in French): you are the buckwheat seed which will grow and multiply and spread throughout the country.

The sculptures at the base of the monument represent other prominent citizens of early Montréal: Charles Lemoyne (1626–1685), a farmer; Jeanne Mance (1606–1673), a woman who founded the city’s first hospital; Raphael-Lambert Closse (1618–1662), a soldier and the mayor of Ville-Marie; and an unnamed Iroquois brave. Closse is depicted with his dog, Pilote, whose bark once warned the early settlers of an impending Iroquois attack.

1.2.3.3.            Banque de Montréal

On the north side of the plaza, at 119 St-Jacques, is the domed, colonnaded Montréal’s oldest bank building dates from 1847. From 1901 to 1905, American architect Stanford White (1853–1906) extended the original building, and in this enlarged space, he created a vast chamber with green-marble columns topped with golden capitals. The public is welcome to stop in for a look. Besides being lavishly appointed inside and out, the bank also houses a small and quirky banking museum, which illustrates early operations. It’s just off the main lobby to the left and admission is free.

1.2.3.4.            Edifice New York Life

Facing the Notre-Dame Basilica from the square, look over to the left. At the corner of St-Jacques is this red-stone Richardson Romanesque building, with a striking wrought-iron door and clock tower, is at 511 Place d’Armes. It’s also known as the Québec Bank Building. At all of eight stories, this became Montréal’s first skyscraper in 1888, and it was equipped with a technological marvel—an elevator. Next to it, on the right, stands the 23-story Art Deco Edifice Aldred.

1.2.3.5.            Edifice Aldred

If this building looks somehow familiar, there’s a reason: built in 1931, it clearly resembles NY’s Empire State Building, also completed that year. The building’s original tenant was Aldred and Co. Ltd., a NY–based finance company with other offices in NY, London and Paris.

1.2.3.6.            Vieux Séminaire de St-Sulpice

The city’s oldest building is surrounded by equally ancient stone walls. It feels almost like you’ve traveled back in time. This seminary was erected by Sulpician priests who arrived in Ville-Marie in 1657, 15 years after the colony was founded (the Sulpicians are part of an order founded in Paris in 1641). The clock on the facade dates from 1701, and its gears are made almost entirely of wood. The seminary is not open to the public.

After a look through the seminary’s iron gate, head to the magnificent Gothic Revival–style church itself:

1.2.3.7.            Catedral de Notre Dame

This brilliantly crafted church was designed in 1824 by James O’Donnell, an Irish Protestant living in NY. Transformed by his experience, he converted to Roman Catholicism and is the only person interred here. The main altar is made from a hand-carved linden tree. Behind it is the Chapel of the Sacred Heart (1982), a perennially popular choice for weddings (Québec-born singer Céline Dion married René Angélil here in 1994). The chapel’s altar, 32 bronze panels by Montréal artist Charles Daudelin, represents birth, life, and death. Some 4,000 people can attend mass at a time, and the bell, one of North America’s largest, weighs 12 tons. A construção é equivalente a um prédio de 20 andares!

Its dual towers are reminiscent of the cathedral in Paris, and its interior is a stunning display of religious paintings, colorful stained-glass windows, and gold-leaf decorations. There’s also a 7,000-pipe organ inside. The award-winning Aura multi-media luminous experience (a light and projection show inside the church) is 34 CAD and has attracted over half a million people from all over the world.

There’s a small museum beside the chapel. Come back at night for a romantic take on the city, when more than a score of buildings in the area, including this one, are illuminated. During the Christmas season, three white angels are suspended at the entrance with ethereal blue lighting.

Exiting the basilica, turn right (east) on rue Notre-Dame. Cross rue St-Sulpice. On the north side of rue Notre-Dame is Claude Postel, a great place for sandwiches and pastries. Walk 4 blocks, passing chintzy souvenir shops, until you reach, on the left side, the grand:

·       Site

·       Horários: segunda à sexta, das 8h às 16:30, sábados das 8h às 16h e domingos das 12:30 às 16h.

·       Ingressos: 14 CAD e dá direito a um tour de 20 min pela basílica com guia, a cada 1h.

1.2.3.8.            Vieux Palais de Justice (Old Courthouse)

Most of this structure was built in 1856. The third floor and dome were added in 1891, and the difference between the original structure and the addition can be easily discerned with a close look. A second city courthouse, designed by Ernest-Cormier, was built in 1925 and is across the street, with a long colonnade. Since 1971, all legal business has been conducted in a third courthouse, the glass-encased building 1 block back, at 1 rue Notre-Dame est. The statue beside the Old Courthouse, called Homage to Marguerite Bourgeoys, depicts a teacher and nun and is the work of sculptor Jules LaSalle. Also on your left, just past the courthouse, is:

1.2.3.9.            Place Vauquelin

This small public square, with a splashing fountain and view of the Champ-de-Mars Park, was created in 1858. The statue is of Jean Vauquelin (1728–1772), commander of the French fleet in New France. Vauquelin stares across rue Notre-Dame at his counterpart, the English admiral Horatio Nelson (1758–1805). The two statues are symbols of Montréal’s French and British duality. On the opposite corner is a small but helpful:

1.2.3.10.        Tourist Information Office

A bilingual staff stands ready to answer questions and hand out useful brochures and maps. It's open daily from April through October and closed in winter. The famed Silver Dollar Saloon once stood on this site. It got its name from the 350 silver dollars that were embedded in its floor. Around the corner, on the right, is the Place Jacques-Cartier, a magnet for citizens and visitors year-round, which we will visit later in the stroll. Rising on the other side of rue Notre-Dame, opposite the top of the square, is the impressive, green-capped:

1.2.3.11.        Hotêl de Ville de Montreal 

É o prédio da prefeitura de Montreal e um dos edifícios mais fotografados na cidade. É localizado bem em frente à Praça Jacques – Cartier. Também está por ali a Coluna Nelson, que homenageia o famoso almirante britânico que derrotou os franceses na Batalha de Trafalgar.

Built between 1872 and 1878 in the florid French Second Empire style, the edifice is seen to particular advantage when it is illuminated at night. In 1922, it barely survived a disastrous fire. Only the exterior walls remained, and after substantial rebuilding and the addition of another floor, it reopened in 1926. Take a minute to look inside at the generous use of French marble, the Art Deco lamps, and the bronze-and-glass chandelier. The sculptures at the entry are “Woman with a Pail” and “The Sower,” both by Québec sculptor Alfred Laliberté.

Exiting City Hall, across rue Notre-Dame, you’ll see a small, terraced park with orderly ranks of trees. The statue inside the park honors Montréal’s controversial longtime mayor, Jean Drapeau (1916–1999). Next to it is:

1.2.3.12.        Chatêau Ramezay

Ao lado da Praça Jacques – Cartier, fica o Chatêau Ramezay. O local foi no passado casa de um antigo governador da província de Quebec e hoje funciona como um museu, que conta um pouco da história da província de Quebec e da cidade de Montreal.

Beginning in 1705, this was the home of the city’s French governors for 4 decades, starting with Claude de Ramezay, before being taken over and used for the same purpose by the British. In 1775, an army of American rebels invaded and held Montréal, using the house as their headquarters. Benjamin Franklin was sent to try to persuade Montréalers to join the American revolt against British rule, and he stayed in this château. He failed to sway Québec’s leaders to join the radical cause. Today, the house shows off furnishings, oil paintings, costumes, and other objects related to the economic and social activities of the 18th century and the first half of the 19th century.

Continue in the same direction (east) along rue Notre-Dame. In the far distance, you’ll see the Molson beer factory. At rue Bonsecours, turn right. Near the bottom of the street, on the left, is a house with a low maroon roof and an attached stone building on the corner. This is:

1.2.3.13.        La Maison Pierre du Calvet (Calvet House)

Built in the 18th century and sumptuously restored between 1964 and 1966, this house was inhabited by a fairly well-to-do family in its first years. Pierre du Calvet, believed to be the original owner, was a French Huguenot who supported the American Revolution. Calvet met with Benjamin Franklin here in 1775 and was imprisoned from 1780 to 1783 for supplying money to the Americans. With a characteristic sloped roof meant to discourage snow buildup and raised end walls that serve as firebreaks, the building is constructed of Montréal gray stone. It is now a restaurant and hostellerie with an entrance at no. 405.

1.2.3.14.        Hostellerie Pierre du Calvet

There is a voluptuously appointed dining room inside the Hostellerie Pierre du Calvet, 405 rue Bonsecours, called Les Filles du Roy, and it’s a real splurge (C$28–C$42 mains). In the warm months, lunches, dinners, and Sunday brunches (a relative steal at C$25) are served in an outdoor courtyard. Take a peek to see the greenhouse and parrots that lead to the stone-walled terrace. The next street, rue St-Paul, is Montréal’s oldest thoroughfare, dating from 1672. The church at this intersection is the small:

1.2.3.15.        Chapelle Notre-Dame-de-Bom-Secours

The chapel’s name can be translated as ‘Our Lady of Good Help’ and the building itself is located on the site of a former place of worship. Today, the current chapel remains one of the oldest churches in the city, having been constructed in the 18th-century.

If you want to see the accompanying museum and climb up onto the rooftop, then you’ll have to buy a ticket. It is more than worth it as the view from the belvedere offers unparalleled views of the old port of Montreal.

This beautiful chapel is close by to the Bon Secours market, which has seen better days! In times gone by, this indoor market was home to local boutiques selling their wares. Today, the market is more of a tourist trap but is still a cool place to visit during a rainy day.

Called the Sailors’ Church because so many seamen made pilgrimages here to give thanks for being saved at sea, this chapel was founded by Marguerite Bourgeoys, a nun and teacher who was canonized in 1982. Excavations have unearthed foundations of her original 1675 church—although the building has been much altered, and the present facade was built in the late 18th century. A museum tells the story of Bourgeoys’s life and incorporates the archaeological site. Climb up to the tower for a view of the port and Old Town.

Head west on rue St-Paul. Just beyond the Sailors’ Church is an imposing building with a colonnaded facade and silvery dome, the limestone:

1.2.3.16.        Marché Bonsecours

Ainda no Vieux-Montreal, vale a pena dar uma passadinha e visitar o Marché Bonsecours, um antigo mercado que hoje abriga algumas boutiques e lojinhas. No terraço há restaurantes que abrem nos meses mais quentes do ano. O prédio, além de ser um ícone da cidade, é também um dos patrimônios históricos do Canadá. Prédio neoclássico com cúpula prateada (bonito por fora, mas sem graça por dentro).

Completed in 1847, this building was used first as the Parliament of United Canada and then as the City Hall, the central market, a music hall, and then the home of the municipality’s housing and planning offices. It was restored in 1992 for the city’s 350th birthday celebration to house temporary exhibitions and musical performances. It continues to be used for exhibitions, but it’s more of a retail center now, with an eclectic selection of local art shops, clothing boutiques, and sidewalk cafes. When Bonsecours Market was first built, the dome could be seen from everywhere in the city and served as a landmark for seafarers sailing into the harbor. Today, it is lit at night. Continue down rue St-Paul. At no. 281 is the former:

1.2.3.17.        Hôtel Rasco

An Italian, Francisco Rasco, came to Canada to manage a hotel for the Molson family (of beer-brewing fame) and later became successful with his own hotel on this spot. The 150-room Rasco was the Ritz-Carlton of its day, hosting Charles Dickens and his wife in 1842, when the author was directing his plays at a theater that used to stand across the street. The hotel lives on in legend, if not in fact, as it’s devoid of much of its original architectural detail and no longer hosts overnight guests. Between 1960 and 1981, the space stood empty, but the city took it over and restored it in 1982. It has contained a succession of eateries on the ground floor. The current occupant is L'Autre Version restaurant, whose inner courtyard/al fresco dining space is a hidden gem (www.restoversion.com). Continue heading west on rue St-Paul. Turning right you’ll reach:

1.2.3.18.        Place Jacques-Cartier

Opened as a marketplace in 1804, this is the most appealing of Vieux-Montréal’s squares, even with its obviously touristy aspects. The square’s cobbled cross streets, gentle downhill slope, and ancient buildings set the mood, while outdoor cafes, street entertainers, itinerant artists, and assorted vendors invite lingering in warm weather. The Ben & Jerry’s ice-cream shop doesn’t hurt either. Calèches (horse-drawn carriages) depart from both the lower and the upper ends of the square for tours of Vieux-Montréal.

Walk slowly uphill, taking in the old buildings that bracket the plaza (plaques describe some of them in French and English). All these houses were well suited to the rigors of life in the raw young settlement. Their steeply pitched roofs shed the heavy winter snows, rather than collapsing under the burden, and small windows with double casements let in light while keeping out wintry breezes. When shuttered, the windows were almost as effective as the heavy stonewalls in deflecting hostile arrows or the antics of trappers fresh from nearby taverns. At the plaza’s northern end stands a monument to Horatio Nelson, hero of Trafalgar, erected in 1809. This monument preceded London’s much larger version by several years. After years of vandalism, presumably by Québec separatists, the statue had to be temporarily removed for restoration. The original Nelson is now back in place at the crown of the column.

1.2.3.19.        Le Jardin Nelson

Most of the old buildings in and around the inclined plaza house restaurants and cafes. For a drink or snack during the warm months, try to find a seat in Le Jardin Nelson (no. 407), near the bottom of the hill. It’s extremely popular with tourists and for good reason. The tiered-level courtyard in back often has live jazz, while tables on the terrace overlook the square’s activity. Return to rue St-Paul and continue west. Take time to window-shop the many art galleries that have sprung up alongside the loud souvenir shops on the street. If time permits, enjoy a drink at one of the bars along the way. The street numbers will get lower as you approach boulevard St-Laurent, the north-south thoroughfare that divides Montréal into its east and west halves. Numbers will start to rise again as you move onto St-Paul ouest (west). At 150 rue St-Paul ouest is the neoclassical:

1.2.3.20.        Vieille Douane (Old Customs House)

Erected from 1836 to 1838, this building was doubled in size when an extension to the south side was added in 1882; walk around to the building’s other side to see how the addition is different. That end of the building faces Place Royale, the first public square in the 17th-century settlement of Ville-Marie. It’s where Europeans and Amerindians used to come to trade. Continue on rue St-Paul to rue St-François-Xavier. Turn right for a short detour; up rue St-François-Xavier, on the right, is the stately:

1.2.3.21.        Centaur Theatre

The home of Montréal’s principal English-language theater is a former stock-exchange building. The Beaux Arts architecture is interesting in that the two entrances are on either side, rather than in the center, of the facade. American architect George Post, who was also responsible for designing the New York Stock Exchange, designed this building, erected in 1903. It served its original function until 1965, when it was redesigned as a theater with two stages. Return back down rue St-François-Xavier to rue St-Paul.

1.2.3.22.        Stash Café & L’Arrivage

One possibility for lunch or a pick-me-up is the moderately priced Stash Café at 200 rue St-Paul ouest (at the corner of rue St-François-Xavier). It specializes in Polish fare and opens daily at noon. Another option is the glass-walled, second-floor L’Arrivage at the Pointe-à-Callière museum, your next stop. Its lunchtime “express menu” starts at C$12. Continue on rue St-François-Xavier past St-Paul. At the next corner, the gray wedge-shaped building to the left is the:

1.2.3.23.        Pointe-à-Callière

Known in English as the Museum of Archaeology and History, Pointe-à-Callière is a top-notch museum, packed with artifacts unearthed during more than a decade of excavation at the spot, where the settlement of Ville-Marie was founded in 1642. An underground connection also incorporates the Old Customs House you just passed. A fort stood here in 1645. Thirty years later, a château was built on the site for Louis-Hector de Callière, the governor of New France, from whom the museum and triangular square that it’s on take their names. At that time, the St. Pierre River separated this piece of land from the mainland. It was made a canal in the 19th century and later filled in. The museum’s gift shop is located at the Mariner’s House building at 165 Place d’Youville. Proceeding west from Pointe-à-Callière, near rue St-François-Xavier, stands

1.2.3.24.        Obelisk

Commemorating the founding of Ville-Marie on May 18, 1642, the obelisk was erected here in 1893 by the Montréal Historical Society. It bears the names of the city’s early pioneers, including French officer Paul Chomedey de Maisonneuve, who landed in Montréal in 1642, and fellow settler Jeanne Mance, who founded North America’s first hospital, l’Hôtel-Dieu de Montréal. Continuing west from the obelisk 2 blocks to 296–316 Place d’Youville, you’ll find, on the left, the:

1.2.3.25.        Ecuries d’Youville (Youville Stables)

Despite the name, the rooms in the iron-gated compound, built in 1825 on land owned by the Grey Nuns, were used mainly as warehouses, rather than as horse stables (the actual stables, next door, were made of wood and disappeared long ago). Like much of the waterfront area, the U-shaped Youville building was run-down and forgotten until the 1960s, when a group of enterprising businesspeople bought and renovated it. Today, the compound contains offices and a steakhouse, Gibby’s, 298 Place d’Youville, which is an institution, although not as hip with locals as Moishes. If the gates are open, go through the passage toward the restaurant door to see the inner courtyard. Continue another block west to the front door of the brick building on your right, 335 Place d’Youville and the:

1.2.3.26.        Centre d’Histoire de Montréal (Montréal History Center)

Built in 1903 as Montréal’s central fire station, this building now houses exhibits about life in Montréal, past and present. Visitors learn about traditions of the Amerindians, early exploration, and the evolution of industry, architecture, and professions in the city from 1535 to current day. Head down rue St-Pierre toward the water. Midway down the block, on the right at no. 138, is the former:

1.2.3.27.        Hôpital des Soeurs Grises (Grey Nuns Hospital)

The hospital was founded in 1693 by the Charon Brothers to serve the city's poor and homeless. Bankrupt by 1747, it was taken over by Marguerite d'Youville, founder in 1737 of the Sisters of Charity of Montréal, commonly known as the Grey Nuns. It was expanded several times, but by 1871, the nuns had moved away and portions were demolished to extend rue St-Pierre and make room for commercial buildings. A century later, the Grey Nuns returned to live in their original home. From the sidewalk, visitors can see a very cool contemporary sculpture of inscribed bronze strips that cover the surviving chapel walls. The text on the sculpture comes from a letter signed by Louis XIV in 1694, incorporating the hospital. There are three exhibition rooms open to the public, by appointment only. Continue down rue St-Pierre and cross the main street, rue de la Commune, and then the railroad tracks to this tour’s final stop: the Old Port!

1.2.4.    Old Port (Vieux-Port)

O Porto Antigo, como o próprio nome diz, faz parte da histórica região portuária da cidade com vistas para o Rio São Lourenço. Apesar de não desempenhar mais a mesma função de antigamente, hoje se tornou um grande ponto de entretenimento. Vários eventos acontecem durante todo o ano para animar essa região, como a queima de fogos no Ano Novo e a criação de uma das várias pistas de patinação no gelo que abrem durante o inverno. Já a enorme roda-gigante funciona o ano todo. A orla de Old Port é um ótimo lugar para uma caminhada e fica de frente para o lindo prédio do antigo Marché Bonsecours – um mercado público de 1847 que hoje abriga pequenas lojas e cafés.

Montréal’s historic commercial wharves have been reborn as a waterfront park, which, in good weather, is frequented by cyclists, in-line skaters, joggers, walkers, strollers, and couples. Across the water is the distinctive 158-unit modular housing project Habitat 67, built by famed architect Moshe Safdie for the 1967 World’s Fair, which Montréal called Expo 67. Safdie’s vision was to show what affordable community housing could be. Today, it’s a higher-end apartment complex and not open to the public. River surfers are known to “hit the waves” in a not-so-publicized spot just in back of this building.

The Old Port that we know today was inaugurated in 1992 after an investment of $125 million by the Government of Canada. An ambitious master plan has now been developed for the site, following public consultations led by Canada Lands Company, to launch a major revitalization of the area.

Walk to your right. The triangular building you see is the entrance to Jardin des Ecluses (Locks Garden), a canal-side path where the St. Lawrence River’s first locks are located. From here, you have several options: If the weather’s nice, consider entering the Jardin des Ecluses to stroll the path along Lachine Canal. In under an hour, you’ll arrive at Montréal’s colorful Marché Atwater, which is 3.8km down the path. If you walk the other direction, you’ll take in the busiest section of the waterfront park and end up back at Place Jacques-Cartier.

To get to the subway, walk north along rue McGill to the Square-Victoria Métro station, the staircase to which is marked by an authentic Art Nouveau portal, designed by Hector Guimard for the Paris subway system. Or return to the small streets parallel to rue St-Paul, where you’ll find more boutiques and one of the highest concentrations of art galleries in Canada.

1.2.4.1.            Clock Tower Quay - Torre do Relógio

Caminhando pela região do porto, você logo vai se deparar com uma bela e antiga torre do relógio, na área conhecida como Clock Tower Quay, onde ficam a roda gigante e uma tirolesa. Built between 1919 and 1922 to mark the entrance to the port and serve as a memorial to sailors lost at sea during World War I. The Clock Tower has been designated a Canadian heritage monument.

1.2.4.2.            La Grande Roue de Montréal

Built for the 375th anniversary of Montreal, this 60m Ferris wheel is the tallest in Canada and will give you the best aerial view of Old Montreal and beyond.

·       Endereço: 333 Rue de la Commune O, Montreal. Site

·       Horários: aberta diariamente, das 10h às 23h.

·       Ingressos: 30,47 CAD, adulto

1.2.5.    Mile End and The Plateau

The Mile End is one of the coolest neighborhoods in the city! It is a microcosm of artists. It also has great food and boutiques. The neighborhood is conveniently sandwiched between Le Plateau-Mont-Royal and Little Italy (while you are there don’t forget to visit the Jean-Talon Market). The Mile End has the highest artist concentration of musicians and visual artists. If you like the indie arts scene, go to Casa del Popolo. There are also around 10 studios of VFX, animation and video games. Like Williamsburg, this hipster centre is among the community of Hasidic Jews. This hipster center has plenty of vintage and second-hand shops and boutiques that sell clothes designed and made in Montreal. The best shops are Citizen Vintage, Annex Vintage and Unicorn.

On the North part of the Mile End has 2 cool spots, Le Marché des Possibles. It runs in the summer they serve snacks, beers and goods from local vendors, live music and pop-up shops. Aire Commune is a terrace that is the lovechild of collaborative working and a trendy bar. Is the perfect space to enjoy summer with its wide array of activities from yoga to parties to conferences. Most of the events start on Thursdays around 17h and a lot of them incorporate food trucks which offers you a good option to eat while enjoying your drink.

This is also an area where you can visit one of the most impressive churches in Montreal, Église Saint Enfant-Jésus du Mile-End.

1.2.5.1.            Bernard Street

Drawn & Quarterly: This is the bookshop that keeps on giving. The Montreal based graphic novel publisher has not only contributed to the city’s literary scene, but is an active creator of community in the Mile End. Monthly graphic novel book club meetups, frequent book launches, as well as special events are all hosted by this wonderfully curated bookstore. Walk in here and peruse only the finest titles of the moment, graphic novels, along with some of the classics. 211 Bernard West

Dépanneur Café: Aching to discover the Mile End’s local musicians? Le Dépanneur swaps out tired playlists for local acts, almost all day long. Locals can sign up to play, so it’s definitely an authentic sample of Mile End musicians! The quirky mismatched decor will either leave you charmed or slightly confused. Us charmed folk will want to linger a while, order a bagel sandwich, a latte, and probably come here repeatedly. 206 Bernard West

Dragon Flowers: Bernard Street is where you will find the enchanted world of Tamey Lau. Pretty white bird cages and flowers adorn the shop’s exterior, creating a miniature paradise nestled between shops and restaurants. Iconic businesses often become so due to the people behind them, and Dragon Flowers is no exception. The shop’s owner, Tamey Lau, is known for her passion, hard work, and generosity. The Mile End community is very happy to have her, as well as her miniature paradise, be part of it. 159 Bernard East

1.2.5.2.            Where to eat in the Mile End

Mile End is also home to Montreal’s famous bagels. There are two major bakeries that rival each other for the best bagel, the Fairmount Bagel and Bagel St-Viateur. Both are hand-rolled and blanched and baked in a wood-burning oven. The only difference is that St-Viateur’s bagels are blanched in honey water. You can savour the bagels by either eating them alone or with the classic cream cheese and smoked salmon or anything that you will like!

The legendary Wilensky’s has been open since 1932. The Jewish deli has the signature sandwich which is an egg bread with all-beef salami with all-beef baloney grilled with a hint of mustard. If you still have space in your stomach, go to La Drogheria Fine for some homemade gnocchi and the best salsa della nonna. And for dessert, go to the Asian-infused ice cream Kem-Coba, you will not regret it. For a pick me up, go to a classic Italian espresso at Café Olimpico. This cafe has been open since 1970. If you are going in the morning, you should stop at Brioche à Tête for delicious buns fresh out of the oven. If you’re into microbrews, then add Dieu du Ciel to your list. If you are looking for other beers, check out my hand-picked selection of microbreweries.

1.2.5.3.            Le Plateau-Mont-Royal

South of Mile End, there is a pretty and fun neighborhood, Plateau Mont-Royal. It has photogenic twirling iron staircases and cute houses full of colors. Along Mont-Royal Avenue you will have quirky shops and third-wave coffee shops. Stroll around the iconic Main, Boulevard Saint-Laurent for the best murals. The neighborhood has become little Paris with all the new French comers. In the Summer you can stroll in the Mont-Royal Street Festival. Then, head to Parc Laurier to have a picnic, this municipal park is full of lush trees.

1.2.5.4.            Where to eat in The Plateau

Your first foodie stop in this neighborhood should be Schwartz’s Deli for the must-try smoked meat. Nearby, Ripples is a legendary ice cream shop that serves up homemade scoops between April and September. In the Plateau, you should head to Bily Kun, a Czech bar with Czech beers and a great cocktail list. Restaurant L’Express is one of the best restaurants for timeless steak and fries. If you are going in the morning your first stop should be Hof Kelsten, they have the best croissants and the best chocolate babka.

1.2.6.    Outras informações e pontos turísticos

1.2.6.1.            RÉSO

Based on the French world réseau, meaning network, the locals call the Underground City “RÉSO”. The network’s first sections were constructed in 1962. Four years later, with the opening of the Montreal metro system, more tunnel connections were built. São 30km conectando estações de metrô, edifícios empresariais, shopping centers, centros comerciais, restaurantes, dentre outros.  Como Montreal é congelante no inverno, esse sistema permite que as pessoas transitem entre os prédios e estabelecimentos sem precisar encarar o frio do lado de fora. As conexões entre um prédio e outros são feitas através de galerias e túneis repletos de lojas e estabelecimentos. O sistema é tão complexo e grande que a cidade normalmente disponibiliza mapas para facilitar a locomoção entre os edifícios e suas conexões com o sistema de metrô. Há também diversas placas dentro e nas portas dos prédios orientando qual caminho tomar.

1.2.6.2.            Saint Joseph’s Oratory

O Oratório de Saint Joseph é uma famosa basílica cuja construção começou em meados de 1900. The oratory itself was first founded in 1904, though it wasn’t completed until 1967. Hoje, ela já é considerada um dos patrimônios do Canadá e foi construída como um santuário dedicado a São José. Canada’s largest church, it’s the final resting spot for Brother André, a simple porter turned miracle worker from the early 1900s who supposedly had healing powers. The architecture is interesting as well, with a Renaissance Revival facade and Art Deco interior.

Depois de alguns lances de escada, logo chegamos a um grande terraço de onde se tem uma bela vista para a cidade – que se contrapõe aos ângulos do Parque Mont Royal e da Torre do Estádio Olímpico.

Today, the Oratory is a quiet place of calm in amidst the hustle and bustle of a busy modern city. Standing nearly as tall as St. Peter’s in Rome (97m), this basilica towers over the city skyline. It is one of the most visited shrines in the world, also housing a crypt. Home to a church museum, and free to visit, the church is open on a daily basis, though, of course, donations are always welcome. Guided tours cost 5 CAD. The Oratory Museum displaying art and heritage is 3 CAD open daily 10h-16:30. You can even stay at the Oratory overnight (55 CAD for a twin room, with breakfast included).

·         Endereço: 3800 Queen Mary Rd, Montreal. Site

·         Horários: aberta diariamente, das 7h às 21h.

1.2.6.3.            Gay Village

O colorido e animado endereço da comunidade LGBTS fica na área conhecida como Gay Village, nascida nos anos 80. Trata-se de um longo trecho da Rua Saint-Catherine (East), com vários quarteirões repletos de restaurantes, hamburguerias, cafés e lojas voltadas principalmente para à comunidade. O lugar é frequentado não só pelo público gay, mas, em geral, especialmente turistas. O movimento por lá ocorre durante todo o dia e os estabelecimentos seguem abertos até tarde da noite. Para chegar até o local de metrô, desça na estação Beaudry (linha 1). In the Summer, the main street becomes pedestrians and has plenty of activities, bars and restaurants. Cabaret Mado is a fun cabaret full of gender-bending performances. Nas noites de terça e quinta-feira, o espetáculo fica por conta do próprio Mado.

One of the main art installations there is Les Boules Roses – pink balls strung across the entire length of the road. There’s always lots of street art on the buildings and public art displays. No Village, você encontrará centenas de opções de restaurantes. No entanto, dois deles superam todos os outros em popularidade e exclusividade. Saboreie um jantar barato no Saloon, um charmoso bistrô de dois andares, que conta com seu próprio DJ. Enquanto estiver no local, não deixe de saborear um martini, uma das bebidas mais servidas no bistrô. Para uma refeição mais requintada em um ambiente de tendência, vá para o NÜVÜ Bistro. A decoração moderna e elegante do local complementam os deliciosos pratos da nova culinária francesa.

1.2.6.4.            Principais museus de Montreal

1.2.6.4.1.         Museu Pointe-à-Callière

Um dos museus mais comentados da cidade foi construído no local da fundação de Montreal. O Pointe-à-Callière mostra o passado, desde o século XIV, as tradições dos povos que ali habitavam e a história da colonização europeia.

·         Endereço: 350 Place Royale, Montreal. Site

·         Horários: de segunda à sexta, das 10h às 18 (quarta até as 21h). Sábados e domingos, das 11h às 18h.

·         Ingressos: 22 CAD, adulto.

 

1.2.6.4.2.         Fashion Museum

O antigo Musée du costume et du textile du Québec foi repaginado e agora atende pelo nome de Fashion Museum, onde conta a história da moda graças a um rico acervo de peças e tecidos de diferentes épocas.

·         Endereço: 363 de la Commune E, Montreal. Site

·         Horários: de terça à domingo, das 10h às 17h.

·         Ingressos: 7 CAD, adulto.

 

1.2.6.4.3.         Musée des Beaux-arts

Prato cheio para quem gosta de museus clássicos e com um bom acervo. Se você não tiver tempo, somente olhar os 3 prédios e a estrutura já vale. The Musée des Beaux-Arts (Montreal Museum of Fine Arts) is probably the most famous of all Montreal Museums. The cultural hub is open every day of the week.

This enormous museum has over 43,000 works of art, with many temporary exhibits on rotation as well. There are five intersecting pavilions but the Claire and Marc Bourgie is especially worth seeing for its collection of Quebec and Canadian art, including Inuit art, Canadian art, Archaeology and Ancient Art, etc.

·         Endereço: 1380 Rue Sherbrooke O, Montreal. Site

·         Horários: aberta diariamente, das 10h às 17h.

·         Ingressos: 24 CAD, adulto acima de 30 anos. Todas as quartas depois das 17h: 11.50 CAD

1.2.6.5.            Parques de Montreal

1.2.6.5.1.         Parc Du Mont-Royal

Mount Royal is a 200ha municipal park and it was designed by landscape architect Frederick Law Olmsted, the same architect that created Central Park in NY. Frederick Law Olmsted also created another park in the city, Westmount Park. Além de ser uma bela área para caminhadas ao ar livre em qualquer época do ano, foi o parque que deu nome à cidade (Mont-Royal). No inverno, além da pista de patinação no gelo, você também pode fazer esqui Cross Country, esquibunda e snowshoeing.

Lá do alto (234m) ainda é possível ter outro ponto de vista da cidade, diferente do observado na torre do complexo olímpico e na Saint Joseph, com vista para Downtown e para o rio St. Lawrence: Kondiaronk Belvedere – um terraço localizado no topo da colina. No verão, o parque se transforma. Diversos tons de verde ditam as tendências e o parque é tomado por bicicletas, piqueniques, gente praticando vários esportes, manifestações culturais e muita música ao vivo.

1.2.6.5.2.         Parc Jean Drapeau

O Parc Jean Drapeau é formado por duas ilhas: a ilha artificial Île Notre-Dame e Ilha de Saint Helen, onde aconteceu a Expo 67. É nessa área que acontece todos os anos uma das etapas do Circuito Gilles Villeneuve de F-1. Durante o inverno, costumam ser montados hotéis de gelo e são promovidas festas ao ar livre. No verão, o complexo aquático ao ar livre é aberto, assim como espaços para piqueniques, paredes de escaladas, aulas de ioga e muito mais.

·         Endereço: 1 Circuit Gilles Villeneuve, Montreal. Site

·         Horários: diariamente, das 6h às 22h

 

1.2.6.5.3.         Biosphére

Um edifício esférico transparente que abriga uma exposição sobre ecossistema. A Biosfera fica localizada em uma pequena ilha bem próximo da região central da cidade, conhecida como Ilha de Santa Helena. Para chegar até lá pegue o metrô (linha 4) e desça na estação Jean-Drapeau, que fica bem ao lado da Biosfera.

É um museu localizado dentro do parque Jean-Drapeau, dedicado à natureza e ao meio ambiente. A estrutura foi construída para a Feira Mundial de 1967.  Possui várias salas interativas que permitem aos visitantes assistirem vídeos, palestras e lerem os murais das exposições. A estrutura arquitetônica do prédio onde a Biosfera está localizada, por si só já é incrível e super compensa a visita! Do terraço da Biosfera é possível avistar o centro de Montreal e outras atrações, como por exemplo o autódromo, localizado na ilha vizinha.

1.2.6.6.            Mercados populares

Nenhum passeio pela cidade estará completo sem uma espiadinha no Jean Talon e Atwater, os mercados mais famosos de Montreal. Eles lembram os mercados europeus, com seus produtos frescos, queijos, vinhos, peixes, especiarias e muito mais para enriquecer o piquenique de qualquer um. Não deixe de provar as famosas cidras e ice wine de Quebéc e o maple tipicamente canadense.

 

1.2.6.6.1.         Jean Talon

Did you know that le Marché Jean Talon, or Jean Talon Market, is North America’s largest open-air market? Also, the market used to be a Lacrosse field and transitioned into a public market in the 30’s right after the big crash. Now, the market has countless local fruit and vegetable growers as well as small shops like butchers, bakers, fishmongers and spices along with little restaurants and shops that have joined the market. Another fun fact is that the market has a real transition between winter and summer. In summertime, the market is bigger and does not have walls and most of the producers sell their own, local product. During the winter months, on the contrary, since local growers cannot harvest any vegetables or fruits, the merchants tend to import their products.

Lá há também alguns food trucks e barracas que vendem comidas feitas na hora, ótimo para quem quer beliscar alguma coisa por lá mesmo. Graças às raízes francesas, o mercado acaba sendo um passeio gastronômico super interessante, já que há bancas de queijos variados, salames, doces, etc. Dá pra fazer várias degustações ali e levar algo pra casa. Nas imediações do mercado (que é enorme), há cafeterias, restaurantes e lojas. Destaco a Le Marché des Saveurs du Quebec, que vende pastas, compotas e bebidas – dentre elas a famosa sidra de gelo (tradicional da parte francesa do Canadá). Tem degustação.

·         Endereço: 7070 avenue Henri-Julien. Site

·         Horários: todos os dias das 7 às 17 h

 

1.2.6.6.1.1.               Onde comer?

Crêperie du Marché

A trip to Jean-Talon Market isn’t complete without a visit to the Crêperie du Marché, which serves mouth-watering crepes made with organic ingredients. The founder, and resident crepe-maker named Jérôme, is a French expat that fell in love with this culinary treat while on vacation in Brittany, a region in Northern France. When he moved to Quebec with his family, he saw an opportunity to open up a small artisanal shop in the iconic Jean-Talon Market. For the last decade, Crêperie du Marché has served as a local gem in the neighbourhood. If it’s your first time visiting, you have to try the mushroom crepe made with fresh béchamel sauce, organic ham, and a bit of cheese!

 

La Fromagerie Hamel

There’s no denying Quebecers adore cheese. A cheese platter paired with charcuterie and a glass of wine is the perfect way to spend a Sunday afternoon with your friends and family. But where does one buy the actual cheese? Avoid the generic cheddar and mozzarella bricks in your local grocery store and head to La Fromagerie Hamel in the heart of Jean-Talon Market. Ian Picard serves as the head cheesemonger and selects the high-quality cheeses from around the world. Picard’s family also founded the iconic “Le Pic” label, which is exclusively sold at La Fromagerie Hamel. We highly suggest sampling their Camembert cheese, which is exclusively imported by plane every few weeks from France. If you’re not a fan of soft cheeses, ask for the “Comté 3 ans A.O.P.” As the name suggests, it’s aged for three years and has a strong intensity, and therefore pairs well with a glass of white wine.

 

Tête Carrée

If you’re on a budget and looking for a fresh meal in the Jean-Talon Market, head straight to Tête Carrée. This institution serves unique flatbread creations topped with locally-sourced ingredients throughout the year. Since the menu changes frequently, you never really know what you’re going to get, but owner/chef Josh Lauridsen knows how to blend flavours to create a delicious and tantalizing result. The last time we sampled the food at Tête Carrée, Lauridsen topped a flatbread with fresh ricotta cheese, slow-roasted potatoes and tomatoes, beets, and a dash of Cajun spice. The meal was divine and cemented the restaurant as a true gem of the Jean-Talon Market.

 

5 PLACES TO EAT LESS THAN 5 MINUTES FROM THE JEAN-TALON MARKET

 

Le Petit Alep

Is without a doubt the restaurant that we’ve recommended the most to tourists over the last 10 years. Situated just across from the market, on Jean-Talon Street, this little bistro serves flavourful Syrian and Armenian food in a friendly and energetic environment. We keep going back for the kebabs, the grilled pitas, and selection of mezze and the well-known wine list- as well as the staff tisane, which is infused with cardamom, mint and orange blossom. And, above all, for the delicious mouhamara, which is without question our favorite mezze.

 

Le Kahéra

A unique place that serves Egyptian street food! It's a Dépanneur (convenient store), a coffee shop and a small restaurant at the same time. The speciality of the house: basterma, which is filet mignon that has been aged up to two months in a delicious spice paste. It can be found in the croque-basterma (cheddar, basterma, tomatoes, shallots and dill) and the beid basterma (scrambled eggs, basterma, aioli, tomatoes and shallots). Plus, to accommodate all diets, Le Kahéra also offers a vegan sandwich (the Foul, made with fava beans) and a Shawarma bowl for big appetites. In the "Dep" part, you'll find a few Egyptian staples like tahini, but also your usual suspects for a summer picnic (kombucha, juice, soft drinks, etc.). If you want something a bit boozier, they have a great selection of local wines, ciders and beers.

 

Gema Pizzeria

By Stefano Faita and Michele Forgione, ranks among the greatest destinations in Little Italy. Here you can find a selection of classic antipasti as well as any one of a dozen pizzas with thin, crispy crusts. The most traditional is of course the Margherita, but it’s also worth it to check out the pizza of the month, which (as its name indicates) changes all the time. The Vetri pizza alone, with homemade mortadella and pistachio pesto, makes the trip worthwhile. The Jean-Talon Market salad, made with seasonal ingredients, is equally good. To finish the meal nicely, try the homemade frozen custard, with chocolate and vanilla, with your choice of topping (nuts, caramel, Baci crumble, etc.). It’s also possible to order directly from the little window right on St. Dominique Street in summer.

 

Marché Hung Phat

Montreal’s Bahn-Mi (Vietnamese sandwiches) have long been a reliable and refreshing option for eating well on a tight budget. Marché Hung Phat serves great sandwiches of all kinds: grilled chicken, grilled pork, or a traditional cold meat combo, as well as vegetarian options. There’s nothing to say about the décor, but the service is fast and courteous. We should note that you can also try their soups (Bun Bo Hue, a spiced beef soup, among others) and various traditional Vietnamese desserts.

 

Café Caron & Frères

 Is the "new kid on the block", but it already established itself as one of the best coffee shops in the neighbourhood! The two brothers (Simon-Pierre & Xavier-Bernard) behind this venture have created the perfect caffineated pit-stop before continuing to shop on St-Laurent. You'll find sandwiches and pastries, but the real star is the coffee. If it's full inside (which is quite possible!), just take your espresso or latte to go and walk to Jarry park, a great place to chill by the pond and take a break from the crowded summer streets.

 

Bonus section

It’s impossible to talk about Little Italy without mentioning the cannoli at the Italian pastry shop Alati-Caserta, as well as their torta Regina, a cake made with almond paste. In summer, they also make a delicious lemon granita (halfway between a slushee and a sorbet), which you can enjoy in the park just across the way! Les Givrés, on Castelnau street, has a grand assortment of artisanal ice creams and sorbets. One of our favorites is “feu de camp” (campfire), which has grilled homemade marshmallows, along the Quebec rhubarb sorbet, as well as their delicious ice cream sandwiches!

 

1.2.6.6.2.         Atwater

North of the Canal Lounge, you should go to the Atwater public market with its numerous farmers’ stalls that sell both local and imported products. If you are coming in Spring or Summer, you need to try the delicious Quebec Strawberries, they are small but full of flavours, simply delicious. This is the perfect place to buy local products, eat in the many restaurants stands, have a picnic on the Canal or do some groceries to bring back to your hotel or Airbnb.  The Southwest borough is one of the foodie hotspots of the city. Notre Dame street is often called the restaurant alley for its numerous restaurants.

·         Endereço: 138 Atwater. Site

·         Horários: todos os dias das 7 às 17h

1.3.        Onde fazer compras em Montreal?

Embora existam muitas lojas na cidade subterrânea, um passeio pelas ruas Crescent, Saint Catherine e Saint Paul fazem a alegria dos shopaholics de plantão. A primeira concentra galerias de artes e boutiques, a segunda abriga as grandes marcas e ainda pequenos shoppings centers e, por fim, a última é o endereço certo para quem gosta de garimpar lojas diferentes e produtos descolados. Rue Saint-Hubert: atrativo é o comércio, onde encontramos produtos de todos os tipos. E justamente por ser um lugar nada turistão, os preços eram bem convidativos.

Dica: Fique atento às taxas! Em Montreal, o imposto sobre o valor das compras é por volta de 14% e normalmente não está incluso nos preços!

1.4.        Onde comer em Montreal?

 

1.4.1.      The best Montreal smoked meat

·         Schwartz's Deli

·         Delibee's

·         Smoke Meat Pete

·         Snowdon Deli

·         Main Deli

·         Le Roi du Smoked Meat

·         Lester’s Deli

·         Gerry’s Delicatessen

·         George’s

·         Chenoy’s

·         Deli 365

·         Dunn’s Famous

·         Nickel's Deli

·         Reuben’s Deli & Steakhouse

·         Fameux Viande Fumée et Charcuterie

·         Deli Boyz

·         Les Aliments Felix Mish

·         Zytynsky’s Deli

·         Jarry Smoked Meat

1.4.2.    Best poutine in Montreal

·         Chez Tousignant

·         2. Chez Claudette

·         3. Greenspot

·         4. La Banquise

·         5. Montreal Pool Room

·         6. Gibeau Orange Julep

·         Patati Patata

·         Restaurant A.A.

·         Broue Pub Brouhaha

·         Au Pied de Cochon

·         Paul Patates

·         Paulo & Suzanne

·         Ma Poule Mouillée

·         Mon Petit Poulet

·         Maam Bolduc

·         Main Deli Steak House

·         Le Gras Dur

·         Casse-Croûte Normand

·         Poutine Centrale

·         Frite Alors!

·         Poutineville

·         Chez ma tante

·         Pierrette Patates

1.4.3.    Café da manhã

·         Beauty’s Luncheonette: segundo o programa The Layover, o Beauty’s praticamente inventou o tradicional café da manhã canadense. Opened by Hymie Scolnick in 1942, a casa é especialista em bagels e também serve deliciosas panquecas com ovos e linguiça. Porções ditas individuais, alimentam bem dois adultos com fome moderada. Assim como em outras lanchonetes de Montreal, você pede um café e pode ter a xícara reabastecida à vontade, tipo refil.  Quase sempre tem fila na porta, especialmente aos finais de semana.

·         Taverne Gaspar: We were thrilled to discover hearty breakfast at very reasonable prices (around $12) at Taverne Gaspar. They have lunch and dinner menus too. This restaurant is part of a boutique hotel in Old Montreal. There is street access, and you don’t have to be a guest to have breakfast here.

1.4.4.    Restaurantes mais recomendados

1.4.4.1.            Wilensky’s Light Lunch Inc

Criado em 1932 e aberto no atual endereço desde 1952, o Wilensky’s é uma das lanchonetes mais famosas de Montreal. Já apareceu em diversos programas de viagem e gastronomia, além de ter side cenário de um famoso filme canadense. Parece uma versão pobre da mortadela do Mercadão de São Paulo. É muito barato e vale a pena uma parada se estiver passando pelo bairro de Mile-End.

1.4.4.2.            Au Pied de Cochon

Chef Martin Picard’s Au Pied de Cochon is a Québécois classic and arguably the best restaurant in Montreal. A mecca for carnivores, Au Pied de Cochon celebrates Montreal’s bounty and serves it on a plate five nights a week. If you only eat at one upscale restaurant in Montreal, this is the one that you cannot miss. Though prices skew higher here, the generous portion sizes and quality of the ingredients make Au Pied de Cochon a great value. The hits keep coming from appetizers like the best onion soup ever to poutine loaded with foie gras to the groundbreaking duck in a can.

What also makes PDC such a special place is the convivial space, converted from a neighborhood pizza joint. This buzzing dining room rages with the kind of energy that makes a dining experience special with jovial servers working the throngs of international guests and busy chefs cranking out the show-stopping food. The restaurant’s pouding chômeur featuring maple syrup from Picard’s sugar shack is nothing short of spectacular. Order this dessert and you will be scraping the bowl until it’s clean.

1.4.4.3.            Joe Beef

The menu changes daily at Joe Beef. Reservations are tough to get at Joe Beef, a testament to the popularity of Frédéric Morin and David McMillan’s Little Burgundy restaurant. A relative baby, open since 2005 and named after a colorful 19th-century tavern owner, Joe Beef is an iconic Montreal restaurant with attitude to spare. You’ll feel the attitude as soon as you walk through the doors and see the menu posted on a blackboard and hear the music streaming through the speakers. Surf and turf dominate the menu with choices like lobster spaghetti and calf’s liver. Prices skew high here, but the pricing is easy to justify considering the quality of the large servings and the overall dining experience.

1.4.4.4.            L’Express

It’s difficult to ignore the importance of L’Express, the city’s classic French bistro located in the Plateau neighborhood. Crowds flock here every day from early morning when the first diners arrive for a traditional French-style breakfast until the last dinner parties call it a night at 2h am. Servers at L’Express are efficient with a touch of surliness, just like in France. The atmosphere is also pure French with a decor featuring checkered floors, closely situated tables and a well-appointed bar. Meals start with crispy baguettes and cornichons and continue with a parade of value-priced brilliantly executed French classics like the juicy house-made Toulouse sausage served over the silkiest mash potatoes in Montreal.

1.4.4.5.            Ma Poule Mouillée

Open since 2013, Ma Poule Mouillée is the spot to eat Portuguese food in Montreal. The cooks here grill chicken over charcoal on a spit behind the restaurant’s counter. A lot of places in Montreal serve Portuguese food, especially chicken and the addictive Portuguese pastry known as a pastel de nata. The ingenious folks at Ma Poule Mouillee have added Portuguese chicken and chorizo to poutine. Add piri piri sauce for a chicken flavor party in your mouth with a burst of flavor. Better yet, order Portuguese poutine, the restaurant’s unique version with chorizo, São Jorge cheese and chopped rotisserie chicken. This big, tasty poutine gives La Banquise (across the street and featured above) a run for its money. Luckily, Montreal is big enough for more than one great poutine spot, even on the same block.

1.4.4.6.            Juliette et Chocolat

Making Montreal sweeter since 2003, Juliette et Chocolat serves a menu filled with luscious treats and decadent chocolate desserts. The dessert cafe also has savory dishes on the menu, but where’s the fun in that? Juliette Brun opened the first Juliette et Chocolat in Montreal and now has nine locations including five in Montreal. Each location serves a range of desserts like waffles, cakes and pastries. However, it’s the chocolate that makes this iconic Montreal restaurant so special. Visitors can drink the chocolate, drizzle it over ice cream or eat it fondue style. Once you dip skewers of fruits and other treats into Juliette et Chocolat’s molten chocolate, you’ll start planning your next visit right then and there. It’s that addictive.

1.4.4.7.            Schwartz’s Deli

É a mesma de Toronto. O cardápio é o mais simples possível. Entre as 3 opções de sanduíches, escolha o clássico smoked meat/viande fumée, que custa 9.95 CAD. É basicamente um pão de forma recheado com a mais suculenta carne defumada de Montreal. Num espaço agredido, dezenas de turistas e locais dividem as mesas. A fila na porta é garantida todos os dias da semana e a espera pode levar mais de 1h.

1.4.4.8.            La Banquise – the famous poutine

You simply can’t miss poutine, Canada’s national dish: French fries covered in gravy and cheese curds, which is approximately 10 times more delicious than it sounds. The standard recommendation is La Banquise. There are a ton of variations on the classic — and while poutine purists may kill me for saying it, a fried egg on top of anything is never a bad idea. If you don’t want to venture as far as La Banquise, you could just go to Frite Alors! in the Latin Quarter. It also has delicious poutine and it’s a little more centrally located.

1.4.5.    Cheap eats at Time Out Market Montréal

Eating next-level food doesn't mean you need to pay a pretty penny. If you're looking for cheap eats that don't skimp on quality, then look to the best chefs in the city. Downtown in the Eaton Centre, Time Out Market Montréal has the best sandwiches in town from Bossa, orders of karaage from Marusan, imperial and spring rolls from Le Red Tiger, malangra accras and plantains from Paul Toussaint, and Caesar salads and veal meatballs from Il Miglio.

 

https://www.solosophie.com/3-days-in-montreal-itinerary/

https://www.nomadicmatt.com/travel-guides/canada-travel-tips/montreal/#costs

https://www.brbtravelblog.com/blog/the-only-montreal-3-day-itinerary-you-need-by-a-local

https://eternalarrival.com/3-day-weekend-montreal-itinerary/

https://ninanearandfar.com/montreal-itinerary-3-days/

https://www.tourbytransit.com/montreal/things-to-do/Chinatown

https://www.timeout.com/montreal/things-to-do/best-things-to-do-in-chinatown-montreal

https://www.mtl.org/en/experience/discover-neighbourhood-montreal-chinatown

https://www.mtl.org/en/what-to-do/heritage-and-architecture/sainte-catherine-street

https://www.frommers.com/destinations/montreal/attractions/basilique-cathdrale-marie-reine-du-monde

https://www.frommers.com/destinations/montreal/walking-tours/walking-tour-1

https://www.clc-sic.ca/attractions/old-port-montreal

https://localfoodtours.com/montreal/10-things-to-do-in-the-mile-end-montreal/

https://www.expedia.com.br/Montreal-Gay-Village.dx6241981

https://www.brbtravelblog.com/blog/food-tour-in-jean-talon-market

https://www.devmcgill.com/en/where-to-eat-at-the-jean-talon-market/

https://spicetrekkers.com/news/5-places-to-eat-less-than-5-minutes-from-the-jean-talon-market

https://www.timeout.com/montreal/restaurants/best-delis-in-montreal

https://www.timeout.com/montreal/restaurants/best-poutine-in-montreal

https://www.2foodtrippers.com/iconic-montreal-restaurants/

[D FABIANO]

Brilhante memória que não tenho mais para gravar tanto detalhe. Estou, por exemplo, a fazer o meu relato de viagem a Europa, porém já esqueci muitos fatos pequenos que presenciei.